Costa Rica Pt. II
On one of my photo excursions I dropped my 55mm lens into a rock-pool on the beach, which led me to take a trip to San Jose after my stay in Santa Theresa to buy the cheap 50mm later on as an replacement. I fixed the 55mm one or one and a half years later when I sadly broke the A7RII in Barcelona trying to help someone who had lost their weed on the floor of a restaurant.
I also broke the drone a couple of days later, I think the humidity might have killed it, at least the gimbal wasn’t functioning correctly any more. I was too lazy to carry it around until I might find a place to fix it, so I dropped the whole thing into a trash-can in San Jose (the only place where I might have had it fixed). Everything from the remote, the drone, to the 3 batteries was probably still worth a good 500$ at the time. I left it so that some of the dudes looking through the trash-cans would find it, I hope it made someone’s day as they could figure out was it was and sell it for the right price.
Overall Santa Theresa was nice, but due to the fact that I wasn’t surfing at the time I couldn’t discover it’s true value, so I thought more of it as a couple of houses and expensive businesses on a beautiful long beach besides an either very dusty or very muddy road with overpriced accommodation and a whole lot of surfy hipsters hanging around without much to do.
After I had visited the beaches for a bit I decided it was time to go inland and see what the very hyped town of la Fortuna was all about, so after dealing with buying the new lens in San Jose, I took a bus there. Found some cheap accommodation and walked around the place for a couple of days. For me it turned out to be the absolute tourist trap, there was basically nothing to be done without joining a tour full of Americans. I quickly learned that it is absolutely necessary to rent a car in Costa Rica, as public transport is pretty weak and walking along roads with loads of traffic not knowing of they lead somewhere sweating like a pig just isn’t that great.
Market, San Jose, Costa Rica
This was the market in San Jose. I felt a little sketched out to walk around it as there were no other tourists and it had a strong local vibe to it. nobody was taking photos. Luckily this kid came talking to me trying to practice his English skills and in return walked me around the market pointing out photo opportunities with people he knew. Everybody was really friendly and the early morning market walk turned out a lot more successful than I expected.
I remember when I arrived I saw the tip of the Vulcano (what it’s all about) and thought to myself that I ll take a couple of pictures tomorrow. Due to cloudy rainy season the tip of the Vulcano wasn’t to be seen the rest of my stay and all the free hiking trials around the Vulcano were closed due to too much rain, mud and therefore danger.
I didn’t feel like zip lining or the petting zoo so I tried my luck with the waterfalls. After walking there for about an hour it turned out to be the most expensive entrance fee to any waterfall I had ever witnessed, I think it was 18$ at the time so I refused. All in all a flop visiting this place, but I thought me two lessons, the first being that a car is necessary to discover Costa Rica other than the beaches, the second that most of the activities cater to inexperienced easy impressionable Americans that like to overpay for everything. As I had a car on my last trip through the USA and Canada it was a bit shitty here not to have one as the radius reachable by foot is very limited and renting a scooter for 45$ a day was just not an option. Public transport works fine but mostly to connect the different cities.
I decided to go back to the beach and headed for Tamarindo, or as I learned later Tamagringo. It was quite the contrary to Santa Theresa, it had more of a resorty feel to it, the road was paved, there were flowers on the side of the boardwalk and there was somewhat of a town centre. At the time I preferred this over Santa Theresa. I even found affordable accomodation that suited my needs, a mix of hotel and hostel, offering dorm accomodation as well as private rooms and a kitchen. After staying in the dorm for a week I changed to the private room and worked out a weekly deal that wasn’t too expensive. Tamarindo was to be the town where I would seriously try surfing for the first time. There wasn’t much to it, just renting a board and going out as much as possible. That’s basically what I did for a month or so, even though it wasn’t that fruitful in the end but not bad for a month, I definitely managed to stand up, go sideways and pump around on fatter waves. Comparing the first to the second “learning to surf” attempt years later this one was very basic and not really intense eventhough I felt like such a surfer for a while. They all always do. I worked out a nice little routine of getting up early and walking the couple of hundred meters to the beach, then repeating it in the afternoon. Sometimes when the crowds got too big on the main bach I would paddle over the supposedly crocodile and bull shark infested river to playa grande to have a few waves for myself.
Downtown – San Jose, Costa Rica
This was the downtown-shopping street of San Jose. Nothing great but good to walk up and down and check a few of the stores. San Jose was the first city in central America that I had explored and as I was fresh off the airport I knew nothing about the people so I didn’t feel as comfortable walking around as I am 2 years later, especially knowing that Costa Rica is more or less the safest of the central American countries. Local will still tell me that San Jose is very dangerous and I am sure it is not advisable to walk around places like the bus-station late at night.
I enjoyed staying at the Tamarindo backpacker resort and practicing the surf, became friends with the staff and some other long term guests in the hotel, as I always do when I stay somewhere for a longer time, not really caring for the short term guests, but over time getting to know the people who stay around for longer.
I do remember a very blond German surfer couple that I connected and went surfing with for a couple of days. The setup basically consisted of Nicole the cute receptionist, and two Chilean ladies that I practiced my Spanish with. Looking for weed was pretty easy, just walk out of the hotel sit down and have a cigarette, wait for a bit (sometimes a bit more) and be offered the super expensive street deals. There were a few dudes around, but in the end I favoured one guy I named Cracky, he literally was the crackiest human being around. When he wasn’t too high he was actually quite nice to be around, but once people are too high and/or too drunk that they won’t remember the conversation or anything else the next day so I don’t feel like talking to them at all. Cracky got high a lot, and by that I mean on meath, actual crack or whatever he could find. He’d always walk around without a shirt and tiny running shorts, sometimes just lying in the ditch, sometimes loudly offering help for the Americans to park their cars. I bought him food sometimes.
Two weeks into my stay in Tamarindo I remembered, that besides being such a surfer now I still liked to take photos. So I decided to rent the tiniest car I could find and give the la Fortuna – Monteverde – Río Celeste loop another try. It worked out a lot better for the photos than operating by public transport and on foot. The radius I could reach was obviously a lot bigger and it was fun to drive around and even though the Vulcano was still covered in clouds, the hiking tracks still closed, the cloud forest had no clouds and the Rio Celeste was more of a muddy brown than anything bright blue I still got to see quite a bit of Costa Rica that I wouldn’t have discovered if it wasn’t for this cruise. One morning I discovered a heavy scratch on the hood of the rental which dampened the mood a little bit and had me worried about returning the vehicle. I blamed some drunk guy crashing his motorbike on his way back home from his Saturday night out, as there were glas-splinters all over the place as well as marks that could’ve well been fresh of a crashed motorbike. I might have parked to hastily in the parking lot of my first hostel. Luckily the dude from Adobe car rental didn’t care and asked for no additional payments which made my day as this could’ve been easily very expensive.
Cloudy Forest I, Somewhere between La Fortuna and San Jose, Costa Rica
After realizing that travelling around Costa Rica without a car doesn’t make much sense I had to rent one and drive around for a bit. I didn’t set to make this trip a long one, I think I only had the car fro 4 days. I remembered that the drive from San Jose was pretty epic, but as I was on the bus I couldn’t stop anywhere and take a few snaps. I remembered the route and when I had to drive back to Tamarindo I took it as far as it would make sense without getting too deep into San Jose.
When I travelled around Costa Rica afterwards almost all the other places I visited were tourist bubbles or the villages were so small that not much bad stuff was going on. I stayed in San Jose for a couple of days, walked around the centre, the most interesting place for me turned out to be the central market, which was very authentic, something the other places I visited later definitely lacked.
It was my first time in central America so judging the situations and the people around me was extremely difficult. The market was very lively and people were tying to sell their stuff everywhere, from the regular stalls to the irregular stalls outside the market area to people just trying to sell a bunch of avocados on the side of the road accompanied by a lot of people just hustling around. I wanted to take a couple of photos in the beautiful morning light, but was a bit scared to walk around with the camera out. The place was super local and some of the people hanging around seemed a bit sketchy, also no other tourists were around. Luckily some local boy approached me and for a little fee he walked me around and pointed out some photo opportunities with people he knew working at the market. Other than that I didn’t discover too many interesting things in San Jose so I quickly travelled on to the coast with the first destination called Montezuma. A tiny town right on the coast literally in the middle of nowhere, just a hostel on a rock overlooking the sea with an relatively authentic fishermens’ village just a 10 min walk away. Good vibes, too much free coffee and not much to do. Walking up and down the coast and discovering the incredible nature which reminded me a lot of Jurassic park, the best thing about Costa Rica in my opinion, the beaches off the beaten tourist track. Wild and untouched, no footsteps on the beach, just the sea, some sand, a lot of rocks, great sunsets, vegetation and big surf.hey see what helps and chill the rest of the time.
Cloudy Forest II, Somewhere between La Fortuna and San Jose, Costa Rica
This photo was taken on the same route, I was so happy about the clouds being so low that it made the landscape super foggy, making the otherwise not so interesting mid-day photography opportunities a lot better. I stopped a lot on the side of the road and always had normal drivers queuing up behind me because I was driving so slow. Never over the speed limit, everybody knows that local people drive at least 20Km/h over the limit, I’d prefer to drive 20km/h under anytime.
Chilean lady – Tamrindo, Costa Rica
This is one of the Chilean “ladies” that also stayed at the hostel long term and I became friends with. Her name was “Belleza” and she was some sort of party-girl always out and about in Tamarindo, not sure but probably handing out big surprises to some of the guys sometimes. One day she realized that I had a good camera and kept bugging me to take some photos for her Tinder-profile until I gave in and we did some sort of photo-shoot.
Thanks to “Cracky” the sketchiest dude in the whole town I also got pretty high. After buying a little bit of weed here and there it led to taking an unmarked taxi to the neighbouring town of villa real (I found that quite amusing, the real town as supposed to Tamarindo, definitely not a (the) real town, letting him walk away into the village with the 180$ I had to pay for the ounce of shitty seedy cafe coloured weed and then wait at some random corner that he’d hopefully return.
Also the way back was always a bit scary as the amount of weed would’ve probably landed me deep in Costa Rican prison. Also being accompanied by the dudes and in possession was always a bit sketch as it must’ve been very obvious to any policeman what we’d been up to. To my surprise he always came back from his little trip through the village, I think he made such a good deal with the little ride out of town and paid so little for the weed that there was no need for him to sabotage our business relation. One time on the way back we stopped at a sports-goods store and he got himself soccer shoes and a ball. I had never seen him happier, he was always talking about football. There were some dark moments too, when he hung around so high out front the hotel that he was barely able to speak.
I was allowed to smoke in the hotel, right by the reception table, which was great, no stress going to the beach or hiding out in the side streets.
Unluckily for me I got quite high off the stuff and with it came the munchies every night which led to eating a ton of crappy foods which then led to a lot of inflammation in my body. At least that’s what I figured. I also rented a different board one day and that was hard(er) on my rib, the system it was using was called the “Rusty torsion spring”. I also remember asking explicitly not for a premium board, but they rented one to me thinking it was a normal one. I think this was the time when they started to put carbon all over the surfboards to make them more rigid, they definitely did a good job on that model, it felt like surfing on a metal plate. The surfing I did with it was significantly better than with the boards I had rented before but after a session or two it felt like I had broken my rib and just thinking about surfing hurt so bad, I had to stop. Surfing was also quite expensive, renting boards all the time wasn’t cheap as there ll be at least a little ding a week when you start surfing. Sometimes crashing boards with someone else or just smashing it to the ground while being in the washing machine. Those added up and easily doubled the weekly renting price.
As it turned out later not just for a couple of days, but what seemed for good. Still, I decided to wait around for a week or two, have daytime beers on the beach but nothing changed and my visa slowly started to run out and so it was time to travel on.